Riding Trails with French Flair By Doreen Pendgracs
(article originally appeared in the Jan/02 issue of SnowRider magazine)


What could be better than combining the best food and refreshments with meticulously groomed trails in a breathtaking setting? If you're thinking this sounds too good to be true, try visiting Quebec City, Canada during its annual Winter Carnival. Held each February, the "Carnaval de Quebec" -- dubbed the world's biggest winter celebration -- provides visitors with the opportunity to savor French Canadian culture and cuisine all while enjoying fun events like the unforgettable "snow bath."

If you're wild and crazy enough to dance in the snow with nothing more on than your bikini, the snow bath is for you. Anyone can participate, and judging by the smiles on the faces of those in the snow, itís a blast! This is just one of the events hosted by the Carnival's mascot, Bonhomme, a brought-to-life snowman in a bright red toque. Bonhomme's smiling face can be found throughout Quebec City during the two-week long celebrations of Carnaval de Quebec, but anytime between November and March is a great time to visit if you're in search of the fluffy white stuff.

You don't have to go far from the metropolitan area to experience the region's splendid array of natural beauty and recreational activities. Just minutes from Quebec City, you'll be awed at the spectacular Montmorency Falls - they're one and a half times higher than Niagara Falls and you can ice climb them if you're up to it! A UNESCO Heritage Site, Quebec City is the only walled city north of Mexico and the self-proclaimed "World's Snow Capital" with an average annual snowfall of 135 inches.

Yes, Quebec City is the perfect place for snowmobilers wanting to combine a memorable sledding experience with some first class culture. The restaurants are so good you'll swear you're in Paris. In fact, it's a good idea to bring along your French dictionary as French is the first and only language of many Quebecers, particularly outside of the urban areas.

So bring along a good appetite -- and thirst. They have this drink youíve got to try. It's called Caribou and is a collaboration of red wine and a vodka-type alcohol. Very potent, yet smooth. We liked it so much we brought home a couple of bottles.

There's also 400 years of local history to explore. Make sure you allow plenty of time to meander along the streets of the old city which boasts an array of well-preserved buildings from the original settlement inside the historic wall.

And just a short drive from Quebec City you'll find the Mont-Sainte-Anne region, famous for great skiing - and snowmobiling! After all, this French Canadian province has a long tradition in snow machines as the home of Joseph-Armand Bombardier, inventor of the first motorized vehicle for traveling on snow. Today, Bombardier is a multi-national company whose head office is still located in the Eastern Townships of Quebec. If you have the time, visit the Bombardier snowmobile museum in Valcourt -- the site of many worldclass snowmobile races and events.

Our Snowmobile Adventure

After enjoying some terrific French pastry and flavor-packed coffee for breakfast, we headed to the alpine community of Mont-Sainte-Anne, located just 25 miles (about 40 kilometers) from Quebec City.

We were fitted with all the gear we needed by the pros at the Centre de Location de Motoneiges du Quebec Inc., Laurentides Sports Service, and equipped with a 500 cc Ski Doo. What a machine! Despite his enthusiasm to hit the trails, my husband, Reg, had to take the time to carefully examine the engine and was quite impressed. Even I, a self-confessed non-enthusiast of the sport of snowmobiling, was excited about our journey. We were off on a four-hour run and would cover a total of nearly 50 miles (75 kilometers). Just the right length of trip for me.

There are about 18,750 miles (or 33,000 kilometers) of well-groomed snowmobile trails throughout the province of Quebec, and we were about to embark on some of the finest along the trails of Mont-Sainte-Anne. It was a perfect day for sledding - no wind, mild temperatures, lots of fresh snow and a light cloud covering to eliminate glare from sun on the bright white snow.

Safety is a number one priority with the gang at Laurentide. We were given comprehensive instructions about running the machine, what to expect along the way, and the best place to stop for refreshments. The trails are maintained by volunteers and are groomed 24 hours a day. We're told that the first snowmobilers' club in Quebec was created in 1967 and since then, many more have formed. It's the corporate sponsors of these clubs that help fund the marking and grooming of the trails.

And groomed they were! Abundantly wide trails, well-marked with signs along the way. I could tell this was a snowmobiling trip that would long remain in my memory - and I was right! I'll forever remember the exhilaration of the journey, the breathtaking vistas and the vastness of the uncrowded countryside that we experienced at nearly every turn.

Reg, a lifelong snowmobiler, was impressed with the quality of the trails. "They're table-top smooth, yet challenging, due to the grade of the altitude and the many curves. And the scenery is incredible," he said.

Halfway through our trip, we stopped at the Relais Ste. Marie, a cozy lodge built of logs, complete with wood-burning stove. We enjoyed a bowl of hot hearty soup, heavy mugs of hot chocolate and a fine glass of French red wine to further warm our spirits. The Relais is a great place to visit, whether for an hour or so - as we did - or to stay a few days. They have welcoming rooms for overnight stays and the smiles on the faces of the other sledders we encountered resonated with hospitality.

How we wished we could have accepted the invitation of the countless chickadees chirping happily, encouraging us to stay and savor the flavor of Mont-Sainte-Anne. But alas, Bonhomme and the rest of the gang at the Carnival were waiting for us. We'll just have to come back - someday soon.

www.quebecregion.com for general tourism information about the Quebec City area.

www.bonjourquebec.com for travel information about the province of Quebec (outside of and including its capital, Quebec City).

www.unesco.org if you would like more information about UNESCO, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization and its designated "World Heritage Sites".

www.icehotel-canada.com if you would like to stay in a unique Quebec City attraction -- North America's only ice hotel.

www.fairmont.com for more information about Chateau Frontenac, Quebec City's historic landmark hotel.
www.carnaval.qc.ca for information about the Quebec City Winter Carnival.
www.mont-sainte-anne.com for information on the Mont-Sainte-Anne recreational area.
www.fcmq.gc.ca to connect to the Quebec Federation of Snowmobile Clubs (F.C.M.Q., Inc.) and view on-line snowmobile trail maps of the region.
www.fjab.qc.ca for more information about the Bombardier museum and the history of the snowmachine in Quebec.