Doreen Pendgracs is an award-winning writer, author and public speaker based in Matlock, Manitoba, Canada.
Work Samples - Travel - Lights, Whales and Bears .. Oh, Yes! The Natural Wonders of Churchill, Manitoba

Lights, Whales and Bears .. Oh, Yes! The Natural Wonders of Churchill, Manitoba By Doreen Pendgracs
(This story originally appeared in the 2003 Canadian Farmers' Almanac)


Churchill is best known for being the Polar Bear Capital of the World, but did you know that's it's also one of the best places on earth to view the northern lights, or aurora borealis, as theyíre known in scientific terms? In very unscientific terms, I describe the northern lights as bands of colour dancing across the night skies.

The aurora primarily appear in shades of green and yellow, but on days when there's been increased sunspot activity, you may be lucky enough to see pink - or even red! I wonder if thatís where the saying, ìheís seeing redî comes from, as northerners' spirits seem to elevate in accordance with the activities in the sky.

Northern parts of Canada, as well as Alaska, Greenland, Iceland and the Scandinavian countries are the best places to view the lights. As Churchill boasts clear nights an average of 300 nights of the year, and the small community on the shores of Hudson Bay is in a remote, northern location with few man-made lights to diffuse the darkness of the long winter nights, conditions for the aurora are ideal. In fact, not only are you likely to see the northern lights in Churchill on any given night between October and April, but you're apt to be treated to a spectacular light show of colours much bolder than the aurora seen in more southern locales.

The aurora borealis gets its name from the ancient gods. Loosely translated, the term means, "northern dawn." Aurora was the name of the Greek goddess of dawn. Boreas was the god of the north wind. An appropriate name for this natural wonder, as the north winds are certainly at home in Churchill, and with the winter nights being much longer than the days, any sign of the approaching dawn is a most welcome sight to its residents.

And what exactly causes the aurora borealis to show themselves? They're caused by high-speed particles from the sun coming in contact with gases in the earth's atmosphere. The interaction of the sun's particles with the magnetic forces of the earthís poles, make our atmospheric gases glow, explaining why the aurora borealis appear brighter and more active closer to the north pole.
If you're really interested in learning more about the aurora, why not visit Churchill and take a course on northern astronomy? The Churchill Northern Studies Centre (CNSC) offers courses that teach you how to interpret the northern skies and give you the opportunity to view the lights from the comfort of a plexi-glass viewing dome. The CNSC also has other interesting courses on wildlife photography, beluga whales and polar bear and is always looking for volunteers to work at the centre.

Fall is the busiest time of year in Churchill as it's also the best season for polar bear watching. Each October and November, the bears congregate on the shores of Hudson Bay, waiting for the ice to freeze over the bay so that they can begin their annual seal hunt. And the best way to see the bears is to take a ride on the Tundra Buggy, a unique all-terrain vehicle that will take you out on the tundra where the bears hang out. Itís an exhilarating experience to see the bears stand on their hind legs and peek at you through the safety of the tundra vehicle's windows.

Summer is the best time to see the beluga whales or 'white dolphins' as they're sometimes called, because of their dolphin-like size and appearance. Each June, thousands of beluga whales come to the Churchill area to bear their young in the cold fresh waters of the Seal and Churchill Rivers. Itís an incredible sight as you fly into Churchill, and look down at the multitude of white bodies swimming about in the clear waters below you. 'Beluga' is actually the Russian word for 'white.' The young whales are grey in colour when born, but as they mature, they turn a brilliant white.

During July and August, you can partake in a variety of beluga expeditions. If you like the safety and comfort of a multi-passenger motor boat, Sea North Tours is a good option. Sea North also offers zodiac trips for those who want to get closer to the action. And if you're really daring, try snorkelling or scuba diving with the whales! Seal River Heritage Lodge offers beluga and polar bear packages from its remote locations, where you can stay for a few days, enjoy the best in northern cuisine and get close with nature.

Nature is full of surprises in Churchill. Trees are sparse, as the community of Churchill is situated just outside the boundaries of the boreal forest. But the few trees you will see are relatively short evergreens that have no branches on the north side, an evolutionary result of years of cold north winds beating away the branches. Churchill is situated in a region where three ecosystems meet -- the tundra, a treeless Arctic region, the taiga or transitional zone lying between the boreal forest and tundra, and the Arctic coastline of Hudson Bay.

So just what will grow in and on this rather barren land? You'd be surprised! There's a multitude of berries. Favourites among the human residents include blueberries, cranberries and cloudberries. There are also crow berries and bear berries, more popular with the non-human residents. There's an Arctic lettuce that makes great salads during the short growing season of July and August. You'll find several variations of lichen growing on the glacial rocks near the coastline. And plenty of wildflowers that splash colour across the land early in July.

And if you visit during summer, you'll have the opportunity to visit the Prince of Wales Fort, a massive stone fortress complete with canons and 40-foot thick walls, where Samuel Hearne, the great explorer and fur trader lost a battle with French invaders and surrendered the fort in 1782. Parks Canada offers guided tours of the fort, highlighting the importance of the Hudson Bay Company and fur trading to the region.

Another "must-see" is Churchill's Eskimo Museum, boasting an abundance of artifacts from its aboriginal heritage of the Inuit, Cree, Dene, and Metis people who first settled the area. Churchill is rich in history and native culture, wildlife and natural flavours unique to the north.
Once you visit, I guarantee you'll want to return because you just can't see it all in one season!

Contact Travel Manitoba at 1-800-665-0040 or visit their Web site at www.travelmanitoba.com for more comprehensive information about campsites, events, and travel options throughout Manitoba. You can't drive all the way to Churchill, but you can drive as far as Thompson or Gillam and fly or take the train the rest of the way.

Fly to Churchill from Winnipeg, Thompson or Gillam via Calm Air, a regional partner of Air Canada. Call 1-888-247-2262 or visit their Web site at www.aircanada.ca for rates and schedules of flights.

Via Rail offers a number of options to make the long 36-hour ride from Winnipeg more enjoyable. Short hauls to Churchill are available from Thompson or Gillam. Call 1-888-VIARAIL or visit VIAís Web site at www.viarail.ca

The Town of Churchill has a Web site listing accommodations, services and activities in the Churchill area. See:

www.townofchurchill.ca

The Churchill Northern Studies Centre can be reached at (204) 675-2307 or visit their Web site at www.churchillscience.ca for information about upcoming courses and their volunteer program.

The Seal River Heritage Lodge offers seasonal eco-tourism adventures from March through November. Call toll-free 1-888-ECOSEAL or visit their Web site at www.sealriver.com

Sea North Tours are Churchill's underwater experts. They can be reached toll-free at 1-888-348-7591 or visit their Web site at www.seanorthtours.com


Doreen Pendgracs is a freelance photojournalist living in Manitoba who has made half a dozen trips to Churchill.